Topical application of vitamin C and its derivatives in dermatology and cosmetics

Overview

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is a highly valued bioactive substance with extensive use in dermatology and cosmetics. Its main effects are strong antioxidant capacity, collagen synthesis boosting, depigmentation effect and improvement of the skin barrier. Due to these properties, it is a popular ingredient in preparations intended for the prevention of aging and correction of photodamage. Despite its biological efficacy, topical use of vitamin C represents a technological challenge due to its low stability and limited ability to penetrate the skin. The work summarizes the key factors influencing its efficacy –⁠ including concentration, pH, formulation and additional stabilizing substances –⁠ and presents approaches to improve stability and absorption, including the use of derivatives, excipients or technological processes. The result is a comprehensive overview of the conditions under which effective and safe topical action of vitamin C in cosmetic preparations can be achieved.

Keywords:

Vitamin C – antioxidant – Skin – topical application – ascorbic acid derivatives